Surfing

I was a surfer once upon a time.
I bought my first surfboard around 1962 and was a orange coloured Hansen.  In those days of freedom from care, we would trek on down to Huntington Beach and spend the weekends goofing around with our friends.

I was able to surf in Del Mar, Encinitas, and Leucadia often as I grew older and have good memories of those times.

After a long absence from surfing, I am older still, but in my mind I am 18, so two years ago I got the crazy idea to buy a new surfboard and get on the beach again, to have a good time there.  I was so excited as I took the board out of my truck, trekked to the water and,,,, I could not "get up!"  I had lost my balance, my dexterity, and my agility and I was embarrassed by my 'oldness'.

To realize that is shocking, shocking to a man with a 18 year old mind that resides in an old body.  I went home and cleaned up the new surfboard and hung it up in the garage.

My surfing days are over.   However, I thank my God I still have my young mind.